In most cases, building a low-voltage lighting system is surprisingly simple.  The following guideline is designed to assist you in determining the eight items that comprise most systems.  Please don't hesitate to contact us with additional questions or concerns.
Table of Contents
Step #1: Selecting the System

As a rule of thumb, consider the following:

  • Cable Systems are great for traversing wide open spaces, such as great rooms or atriums.  They are a nice complement to low or open-beam ceilings.  The key advantage to Cable is its ability to span 25' or more, between supports.  Runs longer then 25' may be easily accomplished, with proper support, tensioning and power supply.
  • Radius Rail - Field Bendable, is great for whimsical, freestyle design patterns.  The installer simply mounts Support Tees in the desired pattern, then threads the rail through, much like threading a needle.  Radius Rail is capable of curves, circles, and even jumping between wall and ceiling planes.
  • Twin Rail - Great looking system, and a stable platform for bigger, heavier fixtures.  Straight runs, or factory bent, with customer-supplied radius information.
  • Basis and Galaxis Track Systems are similar to Twin rail, albeit a little sleeker, and arguably more contemporary looking then Twin Rail.  These are also great for wall-mounted applications.
  • Liana Track, like radius Rail, is field bendable - capable of curved configurations.  Thin and low profile, offered in brushed or bright nickel finish, it's one of the sleekest low voltage systems on the market.
  • Basis Beam is a rather unique and specialized product.  There's no need for external light fixtures, as halogen bulbs (lamps) plug directly into place.  Very clean and low profile.  Remember that lamp direction is determined solely by the orientation of the track itself - lamps not used in supplemental fixtures have no directabliliy of their own.  For this reason, Basis Beam is best utilized as uniform display lighting - for pictures, artwork, wall-washing, etc.

Additional Systems Considerations:

  • How long is the run, what quantity of conductor do you need?  (Remember to double the quantity for  Cable and Radius Rail systems.
  • Where there is a choice, what finish conductor is desired?
Step #2: Determining Mounting Hardware.

Once you've selected the system, the mounting hardware should be pretty easy to determine.  The pertinent questions are:

  • Wall or Ceiling mounted hardware?
  • If Ceiling, do you want solid downrod, or thin (aircraft) cable suspension?  What overall length do you need?  (If over 12" or 18", aircraft cable suspension is likely the better choice.)
  • Finish?  Usually the same as the conductor system (although combinations of  Aluminum hardware and light fixtures with copper cable and accessory shields can look stunning!)
  • Quantity?  Normally figure two (2) two supports per 6' of a rigid track or rail run.  (See our catalog for system specific recommendations.)

 

Step #3: Choosing Inline Accessories
  • Do you need track or rail connectors?  Anytime your run exceeds the length of (1) one piece of rigid conductor, you'll need to join the individual sections.  Couplers can be straight/inline in configuration (usually #512), or adjustable in angle ((#513 - Twin Rail, Basis Track only.)
  • Isolators, anyone?  Isolators are track or rail connectors  which break a system into separate electrical circuits.  This might be useful for particularly long runs (exceeding 35' or so in length), or in cases where the total wattage of lamps exceeds the capacity of a single transformer.  (See Step #5)
  • Decorative endcaps are recommended for dressing the ends of Twin Rail, Basis track and Basis Beam systems.
  • Cable systems are somewhat a special case:  they can span up to about 25' without additional tensioning or supports.  Beyond that, however, we strongly recommend the use of Double Turnbuckle Hardware sets (not power feeds, by the way).  At about 25', we recommend a support bar or support tee, and at about 50', we recommend inline turnbuckles (either conductive or isolating) for additional tensioning.  By repeating this formula, a cable system could, theoretically, go on indefinitely.  For isolation and power supply considerations, please see Step #5.
Step #4:  Specifying a Power Delivery Component

How will low voltage power from the transformer be physically delivered to the system?  Some common options include:

  • Invisibly, through wall or ceiling mounted power hardware components (#CA-305, RR-308, TR-514, and GT-703, for example.)
  • Through a junction box, via a single or double feed power canopy (typically #509 or #510, or a similar component such as #LT-525-NK)
  • Via power bolts (#507), or a power clip (#701), from a surface-mounted transformer.
  • Contact us for more powering options.
Step #5: Choosing a transformer, or "power supply"

In the majority of cases, selecting a transformer's easier then you think, given the following formula:

  • Determine wattage capacity.  Simply put, the wattage capacity of the transformer needs to - at least - equal the total wattage of the light bulbs anticipated on the system.  That is to say, (6) six fixtures each with 50-watt light bulbs, would require a transformer of at least 300 watts output capacity (though you may want to figure on a little extra, in case you decide to add more fixtures later.)
  • FYI, Translite offers transformers of 60, 150, 300, 500 watts, and a dual circuited 300 watt (600 watts total) capacity.  (Keep in mind that the field bendable systems - Radius Rail and Liana Track - are limited to 300 watts per circuit, as opposed to 500 watts for most other systems.

** Note: In cases where the wattage exceeds the capacity of any single transformer, the lighting system may be isolated into separate circuits, and each one individually powered.

  • Determine Electronic or Magnetic Transformers.  Generally, magnetic transformers are bigger, better, and more reliable than electronic ones.  The advantage electronic units have, however, is that their small size makes them ideal for situations where the transformer will be visible, such as in surface mounted applications where the transformer is mounted directly onto an existing junction box.

** keep in mind: as a rule of thumb, electronic transformers can only send power for a total of about 8-12 feet, so unless you're dealing with monopoints, wall sconces, or are building a really short system (and the transformer will be close at hand) you'll generally want to stay with the larger power supplies.  The exception to this rule is the #PS4-DC, which, like its magnetic counterparts, can power an entire 35' system.

  • The 60 and 150 watt power supplies are electronic.  The 300 watt units can be either electronic or magnetic, depending on the model, and the larger transformers (300-500-600 watt) are all magnetic.

Additional Power Supply Considerations:

  • You may want to consider the "debuzzing" ("-D") versions of our magnetic transformers, if:
    • they are being used with dimmers, and-
    • they will be located where a "buzz" or "hum" might be distracting to someone close by.
  • While, generally, the power output of the small, electronic transformers is quite limited, our magnetic transformers have an effective distance of about 35'.  If your run is longer still, you might consider the following solutions:
    • Feeding the power from mid-span, effectively cutting the system length in half.
    • Isolating the system into separate electrical circuits, and powering each circuit separately.
    • Specifying a 24 volt, rather than 12 volt system, or using a Regulating or Multi-tap transformer.  These three options have their drawbacks as well as their advantages, so please call us for more information.  Suffice to say, though, that in certain cases they can effectively double the transformers performance characteristics.
  • AccessibilityTranslite’s PS- &     power supplies feature a patented, microprocessor controlled auto-fusing device (AFD).  This important feature allows the system to reset by turning the wall switch or dimmer off and then on again.  In the event of a short or overload, there’s no need to access the remotely located power supply to reset it’s breaker.
  • Appearance:  If the power supplies are to be visible, keep in mind that our decorative models; PS6 (magnetic), PS55 and PS-4-DC (electronic).  These are offered in various finish options to match the lighting system, or to blend into the background.
Step #6: Determining Power Feed Cable

Probably the easiest step yet.  The "power feed cable" is the electrical wire which carries the 12 volt power from the transformer to the lighting system (or, more specifically, the the "power delivery component" from Step #4.  Varaible factors are:

  • From Remote Transformer - Transformer is located behind the wall, above the ceiling, etc.  Any time the power feed cable has to go through walls, ceilings, conduit, anytime it passes through an inaccessible space (typically part of the building structure), the Teflon Coated Power Cable (#503-WH) is the one to use. * Important note: Teflon Power Cable is single stranded.  Therefore, quantity ordered must always be double the measurement of the space to be traversed.  i.e., if the transformer is 5' from the power delivery component, 10' of Teflon Power Cable must be ordered.
  • From Surface Mounted Transformer - If the transformer is mounted on a wall, ceiling, beam, junction box, etc., adjacent to the system, and power feed cable does NOT permeate an inaccessible space, but travels freely through "free air" on its path to the power delivery component, fell free to use our standard Power Feed Cable (#502-CL).  Unlike the Teflon Coated Cable, this is double stranded, and can therefore be ordered in quantities matching the distance between the transformer and power delivery component.
Step #7: Selecting Light Fixtures

Now that the system is in place, the final step is to choose fixtures and lamps.  Translite light fixtures generally fall into the following categories:

  • Glass and Decorative - Generally, hand-blown art glass shades, suspended from systems or ceiling, and illuminated via bi-pin, halogen capsule lamps.  Provide general illumination and decorative accents.
  • Spot Fixtures - Generally, flush-mounted, system, ceiling, or wall mounted fixtures, precision machined from solid aluminum extrusion.  Standard lamping is 12 volt MR-16, available in various beam spreads and wattages.
  • Pendants - Generally, machined aluminum fixtures which drop from the system or  ceiling, or project from the wall.  generally, lamping is MR-16, with a couple of the versatile bi-pin capsule fixtures included.
Step #8: Specifying the correct lamps & accessories

The very last step!  Our online catalog offers lamping and accessory recommendations for each fixture.  In addition, please fell free to call us toll-free at 1-888-628-5332 for assistance, or use the feedback link located on the left side of the screen.

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